Pakistan revisited
21.01.2009
You had a chance recently to visit Pakistan, where you worked for many years. What did it feel like returning?
I had mixed feelings. I was looking forward to meeting up with the Columbans - priests, sisters and lay missionaries as well as friends and visiting areas where I had ministered. I was somewhat apprehensive for a number of reasons. Prior to my leaving Ireland there was a bomb explosion in Lahore in the vicinity of the Cathedral killing over forty people. I wondered if I would I be able to communicate as my Urdu had become rusty.
What struck you most on your arrival?
After a warm welcome from Columban Fathers Tomas King and Colm Murphy and a good night's rest, we visited the scene of the bomb explosion around the Cathedral. We have become accustomed to seeing carnage on TV in places like Iraq and elsewhere, but it is a totally different experience to be present and see the destruction caused. The miracle was that more people weren't killed.
What really struck me was the resilience of the people. Amidst the rubble and gaping hole in the intelligence building, the target of the bomb attack, people were going about their daily business and starting to pick up the pieces. I came away from the area full of admiration for the people and their sense of courage, particularly the families of the Christians and Muslim families who experienced tremendous loss.
In the media Pakistan has been associated with terrorism and fundamentalism. Was this much in evidence?
The whole political situation is very fragile and you must remember Pakistan has been ruled by the military for most of its history since it gained independence from India in 1947. The current situation in Afghanistan, which borders Pakistan, doesn't help matters, particularly in the northern areas of the country. The concept of democracy in Pakistan is extremely fragile. This is evidenced by the lack of unity amongst the political parties. While I experienced freedom of movement and great hospitality during my visit, the atmosphere can be very tense at times.
How has all of this affected the people?
People are very resilient and they go about their daily business. At the same time I could sense a certain fear among the people. It depends where one lives. In the northern areas the situation is much tighter, yet terrorism can strike at any given moment even in areas that were considered safe. What I did notice in my conversations with both Christians and Muslims, was a lack of hope for any real change that would improve their quality of life.
What about people's quality of life? Did you notice any real change?
The vast majority of the people are really struggling due to the high prices of commodities like rice, vegetables and meat. People are now much worse off than when I was there.
On the positive side, there is a notable increase in the number of Christian students who are receiving secondary level education. But this comes at a great price and sacrifice as the fees are so high and many families get into debt.
The further you go away from the cities you get a sense of little if any progress. Families are really struggling and live from day today. If a child gets sick, which is quite often, it puts terrible pressure on their meagre resources.
Was it difficult to feel at ease again in Pakistan?
At the best of times Pakistan is not the easiest of places to feel at ease. This is true not only for those who are there on a long term commitment but also for the Pakistani people themselves. The political instability as well as the role women are expected to play doesn't encourage great freedom. On the other hand you will not meet a more generous or friendly people anywhere.
I was in a different role on my visit. I found I could be more objective about things and yet respect the culture. I was pleased that my Urdu came back to me, though not perfectly, to be able to communicate with people. There were many instances during the visit when I experienced a great sense of welcome from people, even strangers.
One morning as I was sitting in the local park, near the Columban house, Rana, an MA student approached me. He engaged me in conversation with the following questions - What is your country? What are you doing in Pakistan? Are you married? How many children do you have? In no time we had an audience of curious minded people wanting to know what was going on? He then told me that during the 9/11 bombing of the Twin Towers in New York in 2001 he was studying there. On many occasions he was interrogated because all Pakistanis were being targeted.
How did you feel leaving Pakistan this time?
I had mixed emotions. It was a very good visit. Meeting up with the Columbans, including the Columban Sisters and lay missionaries was a positive and enriching experience.
I was deeply touched by their commitment through education and health projects to those on the margins of society like the brick kiln workers and the Parkari Kolhi people. I was very touched by the work of the small group of Columban Sisters in Hyderabad and Kunri especially in their efforts to empower women.
I was moved by the genuine welcome and hospitality of Columbans and people who live in harsh and adverse conditions, by their efforts to live simply and expand people's horizons. Most of all I was impressed by their commitment and their deep faith. The visit evokes many memories for me and there was a real part of me that would have liked to have stayed. Yet I was happy to return to Ireland.
Michael O'Sullivan is on the editorial team of Voices for Justice, the Columban Justice and Peace newsletter, Ireland.
