An honest man
Daniel O’Connor
I was spending time at the Hyderabad railway station waiting for the Jinnah Express due in at midnight, Pakistani time, to travel north to Lahore on a 16 hour journey.
The weather was hot and I was on my way to the cool of the mountains to go on retreat, leaving behind the dusty and sizzling Sindh soil for a few weeks. I had hailed down a horse and cart earlier that evening to take me to the local bus stand for the two hour journey to Hyderabad from Badin where I live.
Feeling contented after a sumptuous meal at a nearby restaurant for NZ $0.50 I waiting, happy to indulge in some ‘waiting theology’. The rail system is somewhat old and can run many hours behind schedule but trains usually reach their destination.
I find each journey a wonderful adventure full of surprises and entertainment.
‘Coolie’ Mohammed Muladard approached me. He was dressed in an old red jacket coolie uniform with red rug material wrapped around his head. Passengers engage coolie/porters to carry their luggage to and from the trains at a haggled over fare. Sometimes the luggage is heavy and I shudder when I see the loads they balance on their heads.
I recognised an interesting life story so I spoke with him. He said, "I have been working in this occupation for 18 years. I am happy and I like this life as it is Allah’s will. I am a licensed coolie." He proudly showed me his brass Number ‘108’ on his jacket shoulder. "I am under the control of the contractor. I give him PKR300 (NZ$5.20) a month, plus he takes 30% out of my daily takings."
‘Each night I give all my daily takings into the hotel outside the railway station where I eat. If I don’t give it in, I would lose my number." When I suggested that he keep some of the takings in his pocket so the contractor would not be able to take the 30% of the full day’s rupees, he responded, "No, I give it all in, as I am faithful."
"We are 150 coolies here. We stand side by side when the trains arrive. We don’t fight because the luggage is for the other coolie - or for me. I take 10 cups of tea daily. Each costs PKR6 (NZ $0.10). Twice daily I eat at PKR22 (NZ $0.38), then I pay PKR10 (NZ $0.17) for cigarettes. This leaves me with a profit for the day from PKR50-90 (NZ $0.90-$1.56). I am free to work at the times I like. I sleep at the station and eat at the nearby hotel. Life is good thanks to Allah who gives me all.
"Does the thief rob you?" I asked. He answers with a grin, "No, what can he take? All I possess is my clothes. How could a thief take the clothes from my back? I come from a village and I go there to visit after three weeks work. I have a wife, two sons and a daughter. My children are married. My sons are also coolies. They are sleeping on the overhead bridge where there is a cool breeze overhead."
The temperature had been hovering around 40 degrees and at midnight it was still about 30 degrees. The train arrived and we bid one another goodbye. I felt enlivened by this man. His honesty and simplicity made a deep impression on me.
