On two separate summer breaks from theological studies, I had the special opportunity to meet the Aetas of Zambales which is a province in the north of the country and the Subanen people of the Midsalip on the southern island of Mindanao. On my trip to Zambales, I decided to spend a few days in a relocated village of Aetas who were displaced by the eruption of Mount Pinatubo. I was introduced to the family of Kuya Jhun. He picked me up at the house where I was staying. He is about four feet and ten inches, the size and built of a boy who is probably 16 years old. He looked really small compared to the motorbike he was driving. He asked me to get on the bike and so I obliged. And so we went off to his village. The terrain begins to rise and so we had to stop and leave his bike behind. We walked the rest of the way to his house which sits on top of a hill higher than the rest of the others.
As it grew darker, they lit some candles. I was introduced to everyone and then we all shared the meal prepared by his wife. After chatting with them, they told me I could go inside and sleep. But before that they cleaned the “table” where we earlier had our meal. It turned out to be my bed for the night. Entering, I had to bend low so as not to hit my head. With my legs hanging, I slept. The bed was a little short for me but who am I to complain?
In the morning, I got to know the family much better. I asked them how their life was after the eruption of Mount Pinatubo. They shared that it was difficult. After the eruption, many of their families and relatives have been separated from each other. Their cultural system and practices have been slowly forgotten. Kuya Jhun shared that they would rather teach their children the Tagalog language so that when they go to the city their children will not be discriminated, fooled or cheated by the lowlanders. And they prefer not to be called Aeta because it has now been associated with being ignorant. They prefer to be called 'kulot' which is the Tagalog word for “curly or kinky” referring to the Aeta’s curly and kinky hair. The Aetas call the lowlanders “unat” referring to their long straight hair. Listening to them, I felt really sad. They have lost pride and love of their culture and traditions. And so I asked them if they could sing some songs in their language and they happily sang.
The family survives on their farm. But they told me that the lowlanders often buy their products at very low prices yet they do not have any choice. They also end up selling their products in the parts of the market where people don’t reach them anymore. The lowlanders buy their products at low prices but resell them twice or thrice the price they bought them for.
At lunch time, we prepared a typical Filipino soup dish called 'tinola'. But they have their own way of preparing the chicken. But before that we have the catch the chicken! Everyone spread out. Kuya Jhun’s brother took out his bow and arrow. The chicken was very elusive and so when we cornered the chicken, he just grabbed the chicken with his hands by its neck. It takes a village to prepare a meal. Over lunch, they shared what it was like during the eruption and years after. Life was difficult then but it is more difficult today.
Like the Aetas, the Subanen people had also been displaced from their land but not by a natural cause like the eruption of a volcano but because of human cause – destruction of the forest, mining and settlements. I had the opportunity to visit the parish of Columban Fr. Brendan Kelly in the hills of Don Victoriano. He introduced me to three young Subanen farmers who recently completed a course on sustainable organic farming. I was delighted to meet them and so they told me I could visit each of their farms and meet their families. It takes hours to reach the farms which are located on top of a hill or even on the side of a mountain. We even had to cross a river, the same river three times. I admire their perseverance in walking long distances and carrying their produce to sell to lowlanders, who buy them at very cheap prices.
I asked Dagul, who among the three young men lived the farthest away and was the most difficult to reach. “Why do you live here?” He responded quite frankly, "Because it is far. It is far from the noise and chaos of the lowlanders." Don Victoriano is a much politicized municipality. A number of political killings have been documented. Many of those were parish workers. They pointed to the mountains and told me they used to be forest. They showed me the road that was made to make way for the cranes and machines that cleared the forest.
The Aetas up north on the island of Luzon and the Subanen down south on the island of Mindanao are internally displaced peoples, displaced from their own lands. They are not alone. Many other indigenous tribes in the Philippines are displaced mostly by human actions. In the name of progress and development they disregard the rights of these peoples.
The indigenous tribes of the Philippines are among the most vulnerable groups. They have a special connection and relationship with the Earth and its elements unlike many of us lowlanders who have become so disconnected with ourselves, others and the Earth, of which Pope Francis calls, “Our Common Home.”
Deacon Kurt Zion from the Philippines has received an appointment to the Columban Mission in Myanmar.